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LOWER EGYPT AND THE
NILE DELTA
(Part 1 of a Two Part Article)
By Bill Vanderford
 After
marveling at the extreme traffic in downtown Cairo, tourists usually ask
the question: “Doesn’t anyone pay any attention to the painted lane lines
or the stop signs?” This is always followed with a chuckle from local
Egyptians, and they reply: “The lines that designate lanes are simply art
work, and stop signs mean nothing unless a policeman is directing
traffic.” Therefore, one often observes ten lanes of cars where there are
only five painted lanes, and it is nothing to see a car, truck, bus, or
even a donkey and cart make a right turn from the farthest left lane. But
like a Spec Miata race at Road Atlanta, somehow… it all seems to work.
With more
than 20 million people, Cairo is the seventh largest metropolitan area in
the world, and one of the most interesting. The modern city dates back to
the establishment of a Roman fort in 150 AD. Since then, it has been
inhabited by Coptic Christians, Arabs, the Ottomans, the French, and in
the nineteenth century it was changed by the influence of Great Britain
and the building of the Suez Canal.
After
independence from England in the early twentieth century, Cairo continued
to grow, both in area and population. Today it is a huge international
city that serves as the beginning point to see the great sites of ancient
Egypt. Cairo sprawls out in every direction from both banks of the Nile
River, which has always been the life blood of this entire country and is
the longest river in the world.
 One
could easily write a book about all the wonders in and around Cairo, which
should begin with a sail through downtown on the Nile River in a native
felucca at sunrise. As though the morning light was seen through a prism,
the rainbow of shades reflected from colorful boats, buildings, and the
calm waters paints an unforgettable picture of a huge metropolis awakening
to another day.
 Following
a hearty breakfast at one of the major hotels along the river, a visit to
the Egyptian Museum is a must. Including artifacts from King Tut, mummies
of the Pharoahs, and unbelievable art from thousands of years go, this
museum gives one a small taste of what is yet to come during the remainder
of any Egyptian journey.
 Even
before reaching the heights above Cairo, visitors can see the Citadel,
which was the seat of Egypt's power for seven centuries. Mohammed Ali's
nineteenth century Turkish Mosque dominates the walled city. Its
bubble-like domes can be seen for miles above the modern city skyline.
No visit to Cairo would
be complete without several hours spent meandering through the Khan el-Khalili
bazaar, which serves as meeting place for shopkeepers and tourists.
Jewelry items made from gold, silver, and copper, imitations of pharaonic
objects, semi-precious stones, rugs, blown-glass dishes, cotton fabrics,
herbs and spices, and a plethora of other souvenirs are bought and sold in
these shops along the narrow streets and maze of tiny passageways. It is a
place to meander for hours, get lost, but never forget to bargain
diligently for every thing. Nothing has a price tag and the game is always
on between the buyer and seller until they both reach a happy medium that
is satisfactory to both parties…then the deal is sealed with a smile and a
handshake. Also, be sure to stop at one of the outside café’s and enjoy a
cup of fresh mint tea…you’ll be glad that you did! End the day watching a
Sufi troupe that performs its colorful dances at the edge of the bazaar.
The dance is more about spirituality and is performed by young men who can
amazingly twirl for nearly an hour without stopping.
 Now,
it’s time to come face to face with everyone’s mental picture of ancient
Egypt…the pyramids of Giza! These wonders of construction are the most
recognizable archaeological monuments in the world, and include the Great
Sphinx and the Great Pyramid. They were built on a limestone plateau just
south of Cairo on the west bank of the Nile. The complex also features
several lesser pyramids, and a few of the tombs.
Today at the Giza
pyramids, tourists have to almost fight their way through hordes of
panhandlers trying to make a fast buck, so hold on to everything you
bring…including your camera. Camel rides are also offered, but one has to
be very careful dealing with these people as well. Camel jockeys are not
to be trusted!
North of
Cairo, the delta spreads out with branches and channels of the Nile giving
life to a wider land mass. The whole area is cultivated to grow cotton,
rice, fruit, and vegetables that feed an entire nation. It’s about a
four-hour drive through the fertile Nile Delta to the port city of
Alexandria that has been inhabited since the 13th century BC.
Nevertheless, it was never more than a small fishing village until
Alexander the Great decided to build a city, which Alexander never visited
during the rest of his life.
 Throughout
Alexandria, the influence of the Greeks is quite apparent, but much of the
architectural designs also show the results of the Ottoman rule. This
period is especially prevalent in the design of Fort Qaitbay. The fortress
was built in 1480 on the site of the Alexandria lighthouse, which was
destroyed following two earthquakes in the eleventh and fourteenth
centuries.
At one time,
it is said that Alexandria was the largest city in the world, and at
nearly 4 million people, it is now the second largest city in Egypt. It
has always been the intellectual center of the country with a very
different feel that reflects more Mediterranean flavor than that of Cairo.
Special
point of interest in Alexandria would have to include the Alexandria
Library that opened in 2002. The basement of this library contains almost
eight thousand ancient manuscripts and rare books.
The Pompeii
Column and the Kom-el Shuqafa Catacombs are also nearby and certainly
worth a couple of hours to see. Combine this with a walk down the
waterfront by the harbor and a stroll through the shopping district, and
you will be ready for a drive west along the coast to El Alamein to visit
the site of the decisive battle between Allied forces and the vaunted
German Afrika Corps in October of 1942. Nearly 80,000 died in this battle
that ended German/Italian rule of North Africa, and they are remembered
with a huge cemetery, museum, and memorials at the site of the battle.
 After
paying respects to the World War II dead, treat yourself to a night at the
gorgeous Porto Marina Resort in El Alamein that was opened during the
summer of 2005. This resort hotel offers a wide range of water sports,
leisure activities, golf, and options for eating out. The villas and
chalets are hidden amongst luxuriant plantings and are connected by
numerous Venetian-style canals and moorings set by a turquoise sea with
nearly six miles of beach. All of that, plus luxury shopping outlets have
made it one of the hottest holiday spots in the Middle East.
Necessary Contacts for Part I of the Egyptian Journey:
Egyptian Tourist Authority - Toll Free 877-77-EGYPT - Web Site:
www.egypt.travel
Eastmar Tours Web Site:
www.Eastmar-travel.com
Intercontinental Cairo City Stars Hotel
www.citystars.intercontinental.com
Conrad Cairo Hotel
www.ConradHotels.com/Cairo
Porto Marina Resort
http://www.porto-marina.com/
Personal Guide in Alexandria – Nancy Mahmoud Email:
guide_nancy@hotmail.com
Bill Vanderford has won
numerous awards for his writing and photography, and has been
inducted into the National Freshwater Fishing Hall of Fame as a
Legendary Guide. He is a member of SATW, NATJA, OWAA, SEOPA and GOWA.
He can be reached at (770) 289-1543, jfish51@aol.com, or at his web
site:
www.fishinglanier.com
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